Asado Cage Pork Ribs over Hardwood Coals

In the Argentine and Uruguayan countryside, whole racks lean toward a wood fire on iron frames rather than lying over it. The meat cooks by radiant heat and drifting smoke, so fat drips away instead of flaring. A backyard fire pit and a hinged grill cage can do the same job. Distance is everything: if you can hold your palm at the meat for eight seconds, the heat is right. Baste often with salmuera, the classic brine of salt, garlic and water that seasons as it cools the surface.