Greek Pastitsio with Browned Bechamel

Greece's answer to lasagna swaps flat sheets for long bucatini-style tubes and warms the meat sauce with cinnamon and allspice. The real star is the topping: a bechamel enriched with egg yolks and kefalotyri that sets into a thick, sliceable custard and browns in dark spots under a hot oven. Let the whole tray rest at least 30 minutes before cutting, or the layers slump. It reheats beautifully, and many Greek cooks insist it tastes better the next day.