Grill-Roasted Tri-Tip with Santa Maria Rub

Santa Maria ranch cooks have grilled tri-tip over red oak for generations, and the seasoning never got fancy: salt, pepper, garlic, maybe a little parsley. The roast is shaped like a boomerang, so one end cooks faster than the other, which is handy when some guests want medium. Sear first to mark it, then slide it to the cool side with the lid closed. A handful of oak or hickory chunks over the coals adds the smoke. Always slice in two sections, because the grain changes direction.