Nalli Nihari Lamb Shank Curry

Nihari takes its name from the Arabic word for morning, because Mughal-era cooks left it on embers all night and served it at dawn. Nalli means marrow bone, and a good bowl should have marrow you can tap out. The homemade nihari masala is what sets it apart; fennel, dried ginger and long pepper give a warm perfume that store blends miss. Toasted atta whisked in at the end gives the gravy its famous body. Serve with ginger matchsticks, green chilies and lemon.