Steak au Poivre with Cognac Cream

Steak au poivre has been on Paris menus for more than a century, and the method has hardly changed. The peppercorns must be cracked coarsely, not ground, and pressed firmly so they form a crust that toasts in the pan. Flaming the cognac is part of the drama, but also burns off raw alcohol; turn off the exhaust fan, pull the pan away from the burner before adding it, and ignite with a long lighter. A bowl of fries next to the plate is the traditional way to use up the sauce.