Bistec Tacos with Pico de Gallo and Cotija

Walk into any Mexican carniceria and you will see stacks of bistec, beef sliced paper-thin for fast cooking. That thinness is the whole trick: a screaming-hot pan browns the meat before it has time to toughen. Chop it right away and let it tumble back into the skillet juices with a spoonful of raw onion. Make the pico de gallo first so the tomatoes release a little liquid and the flavors meld. The cotija goes on last for a salty, milky finish.