Cochinita Pibil Tacos with Pickled Red Onion

Cochinita pibil comes from the Yucatan, where pork was once cooked in a pit lined with banana leaves. A home oven and a tightly sealed baking dish get you remarkably close. Achiote paste gives the brick-red color and an earthy, peppery flavor, while bitter orange juice tenderizes the meat overnight. If your market is out of sour orange, mix two parts orange juice with one part lime. Make the pickled onions a day ahead as well; they need a few hours to turn fully pink.