Denver Steak with Grilled Zucchini and Soft Polenta

The Denver steak comes from the chuck, under the shoulder blade, and it is one of the better discoveries of modern butchery: well marbled, tender when sliced across the grain, and much cheaper than ribeye. A short marinade with lemon, garlic and oregano gives it a Mediterranean lean that pairs with polenta and zucchini. Cook polenta low and slow, whisking often, and loosen it with hot water right before serving; it should spread across the plate, not sit up in a lump.