Icli Kofte on Garlic Yogurt

Icli kofte, known as kibbeh across the Levant, is a test of patience that pays off with one of the best bites in Middle Eastern cooking. The outer shell is fine bulgur kneaded with lean meat until it feels like smooth clay; the filling is fattier mince cooked with onion, walnuts and allspice. Keep a bowl of ice water nearby and wet your hands constantly while shaping. Thin, even walls fry up crisp. They freeze well raw, so make a double batch.