Jerk Smoked Chicken with Mango Pineapple Salsa

Jamaican jerk began as a slow cook over pimento wood, and that fragrant smoke matters as much as the marinade. Pimento wood is hard to find here, but soaking whole allspice berries and scattering them on the coals with fruitwood chunks gets remarkably close. Scotch bonnets bring serious heat, so wear gloves when you blend the paste. A juicy salsa of mango and pineapple keeps every bite in balance. Give the marinade at least 12 hours so the seasoning reaches the bone.