Pepper-Rubbed Smoked Half Chickens

Northern Alabama gave barbecue its most unexpected sauce: mayonnaise thinned with vinegar and lemon, sharpened with horseradish and lots of black pepper. Some pits dunk whole smoked chicken halves straight into it, but serving it on the side keeps the peppery skin crisp. Smoke at 300 F rather than the usual 225; the hotter pit renders fat under the skin so it turns golden instead of rubbery. Put out pickles and baked beans and let people help themselves from the tray.