Picanha Steaks with Fries and Grilled Onions

Picanha na chapa is the Brazilian bar version of the country's favorite cut, brought sizzling to the table on a griddle plate with fries for sharing. Starting the steaks fat-side down in a cold pan renders the cap slowly, so it turns crackly instead of chewy. The onions then cook in that beef fat and pick up all the browned bits. Oven fries work perfectly here; they roast while the steak cooks. Put a bowl of farofa out for sprinkling and crunch.