Red-Braised Pork Belly

Every family in eastern China has a version of hong shao rou, and the red color comes from caramelized sugar rather than any food dye. The technique is simple but patient: blanch the belly, melt sugar in the wok, coat the cubes, then braise low until the liquid reduces to a lacquer. The final few minutes over high heat matter most, so stay at the stove and stir as the sauce thickens. Serve it with plain steamed rice and something green and bitter on the side.